Emerging from the silvery waters of the Irish Sea, the Isle of Man presents a dramatic silhouette of cliffs and rolling hills – a 227-square-mile time capsule where Manx crosses stand sentinel and the Arts and Crafts movement flourishes in unexpected places. This crown dependency, with its parliament (the oldest continuous governing body in the world), offers more cultural treasures per square mile than perhaps any other part of the British Isles.
Our excursion began at the Manx Museum in Douglas, where the largest Archibald Knox exhibition to date currently dazzles visitors. The Liberty of London designer’s watercolours of Celtic interlaced patterns vibrate with energy, while his rare pewter clocks demonstrate how Manx standing stones influenced his iconic Art Nouveau metalwork. Hollywood legend Brad Pitt is an avid collector and even named his son after the prolific artist and designer.
From the museum’s galleries, we journeyed 4,000 years back in time to the Ballaharra Stones near St John’s. These weathered monoliths, rediscovered during 1970s roadworks, now stand reassembled in their original formation. As the afternoon light bounced around the tallest stone, a three-meter giant pocked with mysterious cup marks, our guide explained how Neolithic builders aligned the site with both lunar cycles and the nearby River Neb. The quiet power of the place makes it easy to understand why Knox and other artists found inspiration here. We also visited Cashtal yn Ard The “Castle of the Heights”, as the name translates, is based on raised land overlooking Maughold and is the largest Neolithic tomb in the British Isles, dating back to 2000 BC (Top Photo).
The museum’s Manx crosses collection tells a more recent – but equally fascinating – story. The 10th-century Thor’s Cross from Andreas churchyard particularly captivates, its serpentine carvings still crisp despite a millennium of sea winds. The fusion of Norse mythology (Thor’s hammer discreetly incorporated into the Christian design) and Celtic knotwork exemplifies the island’s unique cultural synthesis.
There is so much to see and do on the Isle of Man, I recommend at least two nights. For lodgings that blend heritage and contemporary comfort, The Claremont in Douglas sets the standard. The restored Victorian townhouse’s Tower Suite offers views stretching from Snaefell’s peak to distant cargo ships on the horizon. The hotel is very helpful, whether suggesting the perfect Knox-inspired walking tour or securing reservations at restaurants that are impossible to book.
Drive north to Laxey Glen, where the eponymous restaurant sits nestled in a Victorian pleasure garden. Pippa Lovell, Head Chef and quarter-finalist on MasterChef: The Professionals’ menu sings of the island’s bounty: Queenies (local scallops) with samphire, Manx lamb with foraged herbs, and sodas made with Glen Spring water. Time your visit to explore the nearby Great Laxey Wheel, one of the world’s largest surviving waterwheels. Its 72-foot frame is a monument to the island’s industrial past.
Back to Douglas for a meal at Little Fish, where the chef masterfully curates the freshest Manx seafood. The restaurant’s intimate space on the front adds to the sense of occasion.
Shopping: Manx artist Nicola Dixon frequently uses Archibald Knox’s interlacing techniques and has been inspired by them in her range of beautiful paintings and textiles, some of which are available in the Manx Museum Shop. There is also the opportunity to purchase original Liberty & Co silver and pewter from Titus Omega and Chris Hobdell, founder to the Archibald Knox Forum.
What stays with visitors isn’t merely the sights or meals enjoyed, but the island’s uncanny ability to make you feel a part of this friendly community. Where else might you find Neolithic stonemasons, Viking carvers, and Arts & Crafts visionaries connected across millennia by shared creative ideas? The Isle of Man doesn’t just preserve its past – it continually reinvents it.
Words/Photos PC Robinson @ Artlyst 2025
Practicalities:
Ferries: Steam Packet Company operates daily sailings from Liverpool (2hr 45min) and Belfast (2hr 55min)
Flights: Regular services from London (1 hr), Manchester (45 min), and regional airports
The Claremont: Rooms from £180; The Claremont Hotel
Little Fish: Market-price local fish; littlefish.im
Laxey Glen
Manx Museum: Free admission (donations appreciated)
Archibald Knox: Order and Beauty, Manx Museum, Douglas, Isle of Man, 5 April 2025 – 1 March 2026