Oliviero Toscani: Provocative Photography Visionary Dies Aged 82

Oliviero Toscani

The visionary photographer Oliviero Toscani, best known for his controversial photo campaigns for the Italian fashion brand Benetton, died aged 82.

He was born in Milan on 28 February 1942 into a creative household. His father, Fedele Toscani, was a renowned photojournalist for Corriere della Sera, which undoubtedly influenced Toscani’s early exposure to photography.

Toscani studied at the prestigious Kunstgewerbeschule in Zurich, Switzerland, graduating in 1965. His formal training in visual arts and design set the stage for a career defined by bold aesthetics and a relentless willingness to challenge societal norms. Career Beginnings Toscani gained initial recognition in the 1960s and 1970s for his work in fashion photography, producing campaigns for brands like Esprit Chanel and Fiorucci. His dynamic and unconventional style quickly made him a sought-after photographer in the industry, but his later work catapulted him into global fame.

The AIDS-David Kirby print ad from Benetton in 1992. (Oliviero Toscani/Benetton
The AIDS:  Print ad from Benetton in 1992. (© Oliviero Toscani/Benetton)

The Benetton Era In 1982, Toscani began a groundbreaking collaboration with the Italian clothing brand Benetton that would last nearly two decades. As the creative force behind the brand’s advertising campaigns, Toscani used his platform to address controversial social and political issues, including racism, AIDS, war and environmental degradation. The iconic campaigns which Toscani authored included stark and thought-provoking images such as a dying AIDS patient surrounded by his grieving family and Blood-Snapped Military Units and a photo of three human hearts labelled “white”, “black”, and “yellow.

Other Notable Work Toscani’s impact extended beyond Benetton. He co-founded Colors Magazine in 1991, an experimental publication focused on global culture and social issues in four countries. The magazine’s tagline, “a magazine about the rest of the world,” reflects Toscani’s vision of art and communication as tools for fostering empathy and understanding.

In 2007, Toscani caused controversy again with another campaign for an Italian clothing company with images of anorexic model Isabelle Caro to draw attention to eating disorders in the fashion industry. Awards and Recognition Toscani has received numerous awards throughout his career, including the Lion d’Or at the Cannes Advertising Festival and the Saatchi & Saatchi Creativity Hero Award.

His work has been exhibited in museums and galleries worldwide, cementing his status as a photography and visual communication pioneer. Legacy and Philosophy Toscani’s work is characterized by his belief in the power of images to provoke dialogue and instigate change. He has often stated that his aim is not to shock but to confront viewers with uncomfortable truths about the world.

Oliviero Toscani remained outspoken about his beliefs and continued to challenge conventions in business and personal life. He resided in Tuscany and managed a creative studio and workshop for young artists and photographers.

Toscani’s career has redefined the boundaries of photography, advertising and activism. His approach to tackling societal issues through visual media has made him a controversial yet undeniably influential figure in art and communication.

Top Photo: Eirik Solheim Via Creative Commons

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